It may not be a zine, a house show, or kombucha, and it’s definitely not vegan, but there’s no questioning the DIY credibility of jerky. Whether it’s from grandfather’s elk haul (I mean, definitely not my grandfather, but probably somebody’s) or the butcher, jerky and pemmican are long-held traditions for preserving meat that are older than refrigeration. And although its gas-station derivatives may prop up the horrors of factory farming and first world sodium addiction, I’d like to introduce to you perhaps one of my greatest snackfood revelations in the last two years: thit bo kho or Vietnamese beef jerky.
In many ways its taste and texture profile are a world (or at least a hemisphere) away from the jerky I was used to growing up — it’s brittle, covered in spices and prone to making a mouth water ferociously. Traditionally, it’s enjoyed as a bar snack, sort of the way North Americans eat wings. There are a few recipes out there in English, none of which, to my execution, have matched the level of the brands and flavours I’ve sampled.
My favorite is Lȇ Ky, made in Richmond Hill and available at Le’s Sandwich at College and Dufferin in Toronto, also an amazing banh mi spot. When I approach, drooling, with the last of my savings in my pocket, the often surly expert banh-mista woman breaks into a relieved smile, as though to say, “It’s you :’^)”
When I perfect the recipe at home, I’ll let you know. I’ll get there soon. Until then, go out and support your local purveyors of fine Vietnamese beef jerky — or better yet, send me samples of your own!